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Morphology 101: Choosing the Right Hairstyle for your Face

Your hairstyle must always complement the shape of your face. This article explains how face morphology should influence your choice of cut.

At Jacques Despars, we believe that the right cut suited to your lifestyle:

1- will take into account the natural texture of your hair;
2- will be properly structured (the kind that styles itself);
3- will be executed by a professional who will first enquire about your hairstyling routine, as well as the time, products and tools you’re ready to use to achieve the same look at home.



No angles. The distance from the forehead to the chin and from ear to ear is about the same. Choose an inverted bob or a straight cut at the chin. If you prefer mid-length hair, make sure the length is between your chin and your shoulders. Foams and other root volumizing products will help build volume, which will balance your face by giving it height. Avoid very short and layered cuts as well as a very short cheek length non-layered square cuts.

Pro tips: Tie your hair while taking care to create a little volume at the top. Let a few loose locks fall around your face. Keep a long bang to one side. When wearing your hair down, keep it slightly wavy. Make your updos sky high! As for coloring, use lots of small lowlights and highlights (darker and lighter tones) to produce a slimming effect, much like the vertical stripes on clothing.


The ideal well-balanced shape. The width of the face is about half its length.
Everything looks good on you: bangs, bobs, layered mid-length cuts, pixie cuts… “the sky’s the limit”! Any cut or hairdo will look good on people with an oval-shaped face. Style to your hearts’ desire!



If your face is not very long, with prominent jaws and a wide forehead, you have a square face (if it’s rather long, check out the description for the rectangular face below). Your first option is to either accentuate or round your features (to impart character or soften your look).

Feeling rebellious? Go for a jaw-length bob.  Otherwise, soften the angles with a chin-length bob and make sure to flip the ends inward (towards your face).
Long, straight hair will lengthen the shape of your face and give you a great look. Keep a few loose locks near the jaw line to soften the angles.
Make sure your cut is layered so you can build volume on top.
Foams and root volumizing products will also do wonders for your hair.
We don’t recommend long bangs because they would shorten your face too much.
Also, avoid very short cuts that could give you an androgynous look, unless, of course, it’s the desired effect!
Color-wise, add highlights near the cheeks using a hair contouring technique that will narrow your features.
You can also go for a bold color like a deep red or platinum blonde.
When tying up your hair, leave a few loose locks around your face.
Waves and feathered bangs generally suit you very well.


Your face is like the square-shaped face, only longer.
We recommend a slightly rounded bob or a bob layered at the tips.
If you prefer a mid-length cut, keep it at the level of your shoulder blades.
Your face will look its best with a structured cut with volume at the jaws and feathered ends to frame it.
You will love texturizing products to create waves, ripples and volumes.
Importantly, avoid long straight hair with no volume and separated in the middle! A very short bob (ear length) is also not suited for you.
If you have long hair, take the time to curl and volumize your hair. You also have the perfect face for bangs.
Never tie your hair too tightly. Instead, opt for a loose bun with a few loose locks.

Pro tip: Curl a few locks around the ears to frame your face.
As for coloring, add highlights in your bang and locks to frame your face and round it out.


Your jaws are wide and your forehead is narrow.
A straight short bob with no bang will make you look fabulous.
Long or semi-long haircuts with feathered layers at the jawline are also a great choice.
The main thing to remember in your case is to reduce the thickness at the jaws, keep the face clear, with volume on the top and at the temples. It’s very important that your forehead stays clear. Go for a short and voluminous cut to get a whole new look! Buy foams and root lifting products to help you build and maintain volume.
Avoid cuts constructed with volume at the jawline and flat at the top.
Pixie cuts are also not recommended.

Pro tip: If you have long hair, tie it loosely as high as possible near the top of your head to create volume.
A play on darker and lighter color at the top and upper sides of your head will create texture and an illusion of volume, allowing hair to gracefully transition without overloading the lower part of the face.
Style your hair straight or wavy, as long as the volume is at the top of your face.


Your forehead is wide and your chin narrow.
The basic rule, in your case, will be to add volume at the jawline to widen it. Go for the short or half-length cuts with a bang or a very layered and feathered bob.
Use styling products such as creams, pastes and pomades to define your layers at the jawline. Foams are useful for crumpling the ends to create volume at the jawline.
Absolutely avoid the round bob that falls just above the chin, thereby widening the entire upper part of your face. Also void also straight and very short or very long cuts with no volume.
Place your bang to one side, or wear a very thick bang.
Keep the ends wavy.

Pro tip: When tying your hair, the tie or bun should be low-hanging with loose locks at the level of the chin to add volume.
Color-wise, choose different shades at the mid-length and tips (ombré, sombré, bronde, etc.).



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